Pin it The kitchen smelled like the Scottish coast that evening, all salt and smoke curling through the steam. I had a fillet of smoked haddock wrapped in paper, a bag of Arborio rice I'd been meaning to use, and no plan whatsoever. Risotto felt like the right answer, something slow and forgiving. I poured myself a glass of wine, turned on the radio, and started stirring. What came out of that pan was better than I'd hoped for, creamy and delicate, with just enough smoke to remind you of harbor towns and open fires.
I made this for my sister once when she came over unannounced, cold and drenched from the rain. She sat at the counter wrapped in a blanket while I ladled stock and told her about my week. By the time I folded in the haddock, she was already eyeing the pan. We ate straight from bowls, no ceremony, just warm food and good company. She still asks for it every time she visits.
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Ingredients
- Smoked haddock fillets: Look for undyed fillets, the natural pale gold kind, not the neon yellow ones that taste more of dye than fish.
- Whole milk: This is what you poach the fish in, and it becomes part of the risotto base, so don't skimp and use something watery.
- Fish or vegetable stock: Keep it hot in a separate pot so the rice cooks evenly and doesn't seize up when you add cold liquid.
- Arborio or Carnaroli rice: Arborio is easier to find, Carnaroli holds its shape a bit better, but either works beautifully here.
- Onion, garlic, leek: The aromatics build a gentle, sweet base that lets the fish shine without competing.
- Unsalted butter and olive oil: Butter for richness, oil to keep it from burning, together they make everything taste like you know what you're doing.
- Parmesan cheese: Freshly grated, never the dusty stuff in a shaker, it melts into the rice and adds a quiet, savory depth.
- Flat-leaf parsley and lemon zest: Brightness at the end, a little pop of green and citrus to wake everything up.
- Black pepper and sea salt: Season carefully, the haddock and Parmesan are already salty, so taste before you add more.
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Instructions
- Poach the haddock:
- Slip the fillets into a pan of milk and bring it to a bare simmer, just a few bubbles around the edges. Let it poach gently for 5 to 7 minutes until the fish flakes easily, then lift it out and set it aside, saving every drop of that smoky, fishy milk.
- Soften the aromatics:
- Melt the butter with olive oil in a wide, heavy pan and add the onion, leek, and garlic. Cook them low and slow until they're soft and translucent, sweet but not browned.
- Toast the rice:
- Tip in the rice and stir it around for a minute or two until the edges go see-through and it smells faintly nutty. This step matters more than you'd think.
- Add the poaching milk:
- Pour in the reserved milk and stir until the rice drinks it all up. It'll look loose at first, then thicken as the starch releases.
- Ladle in the stock:
- Add the hot stock one ladle at a time, stirring often and waiting until each addition is absorbed before adding the next. This takes about 20 minutes, and yes, you have to stay with it.
- Fold in the fish and finish:
- When the rice is creamy and just tender, gently fold in the flaked haddock, Parmesan, lemon zest, and parsley. Taste it, adjust the seasoning, and if you're feeling indulgent, stir in another knob of butter.
- Rest and serve:
- Take the pan off the heat, cover it, and let it sit for two minutes. This lets everything settle and marry together before you spoon it into bowls.
Pin it There was a night I made this after a particularly rough week, the kind where nothing had gone right and I just needed something to work. I stood at the stove, stirring in silence, watching the rice slowly turn creamy and listening to the clock tick. When I finally sat down with a bowl, warm and perfect, I realized I'd been holding my breath. Food like this doesn't fix everything, but it steadies you.
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What to Serve Alongside
This risotto is rich enough to stand on its own, but a simple green salad with lemon vinaigrette cuts through the creaminess beautifully. I've also served it with roasted asparagus or tenderstem broccoli, anything with a bit of char and bitterness to balance the smoke. A glass of chilled Sauvignon Blanc or a dry Riesling is perfect here, crisp and bright enough to lift every bite.
How to Store and Reheat
Risotto never reheats quite the same, but you can save leftovers in the fridge for up to two days. Warm it gently in a pan with a splash of stock or milk, stirring until it loosens up again. Don't expect it to be as creamy as the first day, but it's still good, especially for a quick lunch. You can also shape cold risotto into patties, coat them in breadcrumbs, and fry them into crispy cakes, which is honestly a whole different kind of wonderful.
Ways to Make It Your Own
I've swapped the haddock for smoked trout before, which gives it a more delicate flavor and a prettier pink color. You could stir in peas or spinach at the end for extra green, or add a pinch of saffron to the stock for a golden, aromatic twist. Some people like a splash of white wine after toasting the rice, which adds acidity and depth, though I find it works just fine without.
- Try stirring in a spoonful of crème fraîche instead of butter at the end for a tangy finish.
- Use spring onions instead of leeks if that's what you have, they're milder and sweeter.
- Add a handful of fresh dill with the parsley for a more Nordic, herbaceous vibe.
Pin it This is the kind of dish that feels like a hug from the inside, warm and gentle and exactly what you need when the world feels too loud. Make it once, and I promise it'll become part of your rotation.
Recipe Questions & Answers
- → Can I use fresh haddock instead of smoked?
Yes, but you'll lose the distinctive smoky flavor that defines this dish. If using fresh haddock, consider adding a pinch of smoked paprika for depth.
- → What can I substitute for Arborio rice?
Carnaroli rice is an excellent alternative and actually preferred by many Italian chefs for its firm texture. Vialone Nano also works well for a creamier result.
- → How do I know when the risotto is done?
The rice should be creamy and flow slowly when spooned onto a plate, with grains that are tender but still have a slight bite (al dente) in the center.
- → Can I make this ahead of time?
Risotto is best served immediately, but you can cook it 80% through, spread on a tray to cool, then finish with remaining stock when ready to serve.
- → What wine pairs best with smoked haddock risotto?
A crisp Sauvignon Blanc or dry Riesling complements the smoky fish beautifully. Alternatively, try a light Pinot Grigio or unoaked Chardonnay.
- → Is the poaching milk necessary?
Yes, the milk gently cooks the haddock while infusing it with creaminess. The reserved poaching liquid also adds richness and smoky flavor to the risotto base.